What’s The Best Broker To Start My Roth IRA?

I am often asked where is the best place to open one’s first IRA. Usually it’s a Roth IRA, since people tend to start out in lower tax brackets and Roth IRA save you taxes upon withdrawal.  But to be sure whether you want a Roth or Traditional IRA, check out a quick IRA comparison tool over at Mint.com.  You’ll be able figure out what kind of IRA you want, and then locate a broker to get it started.

Choosing a one’s broker is still a very personal decision so I don’t think there is one single best broker for everyone, but here are the ones I would recommend to my friends and family, so I would also recommend them to anyone. First, some assumptions:

  1. You want to invest in low-cost funds or ETFs. Not every believe in this style of investing, but I do. If you wish to trades stocks all day or chase 5-star Morningstar funds, then my suggestions might not be the best fit fo you.
  2. You want low commission costs and account fees. By this, I mean you want the basic services at a good price. I don’t pay attention to things like streaming quotes, advanced trading software, options contracts, or if the website has AJAX everywhere.
  3. You wish to be an independent investor. If you want to pay for guidance, I still recommend taking the time to learn some of the basics, but please find a good fee-only advisor. They’ll probably set you up with a institutional account in which they can trade for you.
  4. You are just starting out. So you have anywhere from just $50 a month to $5,000 to put into an IRA. You may be worried about minimum balance requirements, and aren’t eligible for most premium accounts.

Mutual Fund Brokerages
These firms mainly trade their own mutual funds, which somewhat restricts investment choice. To generalize, mutual funds are better suited for people who wish to dollar-cost average and like simplicity.

Vanguard

  • Commissions: Free to trade Vanguard mutual funds, although there may be certain redemption fees.
  • Account fees: No account fees with electronic statements. Otherwise they may apply.
  • Minimum to start: Most index funds have a minimum opening balance of $3,000. The STAR fund (VGSTX) lets you start with $1,000. More information here.
  • Vanguard is the place where I hold all of my Roth and Rollover IRA balances. They offer a wide variety of both active and passive products, but I use them exclusively for their index funds. I like their all-in-one retirement funds for new investors.

T. Rowe Price

  • Commissions: Free to trade TRP mutual funds, although there may be certain redemption fees.
  • Account fees: $10 fore each mutual fund with less than $5,000. Not sure if this is waived for AAB.
  • Minimum to start: Most funds have a minimum opening balance of $1,000 for IRAs. However, if you enroll in their Automatic Asset Builder (AAB) program and can commit $50 every month, the minimum requirement is waived and you can start with nothing. More information here.
  • T. Rowe Price has index funds, but their expense ratios about about 0.25% higher than at Vanguard. However, their active funds have relatively low-costs and lower turnover compared to other actively-managed funds. I like the combination of the $50/month plan and one of their all-in-one retirement funds for those with limited funds starting out, although I don’t have an account here.

In case you’re curious, I’m leaving out Fidelity because their index funds have $10,000 minimums, and their active funds are more expensive in general than T. Rowe Price. I also don’t like their all-in-one retirement funds very much, as they seem to contain a slew of mediocre funds.

ETF & Stock Brokerages
There are lots of great ETFs out there now, including several from Vanguard, and having a stock brokerage account gives you great flexibility to buy any of them. However, you will be faced with potential per-trade commissions, so here are a few that have low fees. I have accounts with all of these firms.

Zecco Trading

  • Commissions: Free for the 1st 10 trades per month if you have $2,500 in total account equity (cash + value of stocks). Otherwise, $4.50 per trade. Both limit and market.
  • Account fees: $30 annual IRA fee.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my Zecco account review.

TradeKing

  • Commissions: $4.95 per trade, limit or market.
  • Account fees: No annual IRA fee.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my TradeKing account review.

Sharebuilder (now owned by Capital One 360)

  • Commissions:$4 for each pre-scheduled “window” trade purchase. $9.95 for a real-time trade and to sell. Alternative higher-volume plans also available. In addition, if you open an IRA by 4/15/08 and use the promotion code ‘IRA2008’, you’ll get 7 free trades good until 12/31/08.
  • Account fees: $25 annual fee if you are in their basic plan. If you are on a plan with a monthly charge, or you have any account on such a plan, this fee is waived.
  • Minimum to start: No minimum balance to open.
  • For more information, see my Capital One 360 ShareBuilder review.

I hope that helps people with their research. You should also be aware of IRA termination and transfer-out fees if you wish to move, but these change all the time so by the time you want to leave they may be different. For more related posts on starting out in investing, please see my Rough Guide To Investing.

Free Experian Credit Score via Prosper Lending

Prosper person-to-person lending offers up another perk – a free credit score for prospective borrowers. If you’re a lender already, it’s not too difficult to become a borrower. I just had to verify my address and phone numbers, and they offered up my credit profile. You will need to provide your Social Security number, though.

After signing up and logging in, just click on “Get a Loan” and then “Get a Personal Loan”. Note that this isn’t your FICO score, but an Experian ScoreX PLUS score based on your Experian credit report. (Some people refer to these as Fake-O scores, or FAKO, as they compete with FICO scores.) Prosper makes it pretty clear that this credit profile will not affect your credit score:

Having Prosper obtain your credit grade won’t affect your credit score. Although we are making a request for your credit score, we’re doing so at your instruction so no inquiries viewable by subsequent users of your credit report will be placed in your credit file. That means your credit score won’t be affected when you register or post a listing.

In other words, it is a soft pull. However, if you do fund a loan, a hard pull will be performed. Here’s a partial screenshot of my profile:

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I’m not sure how the Experian score maps to FICO (they don’t officially), but it should give you a general idea of where you’re at. I’m glad to see I’m still at the highest AA grade even though I make money borrowing from credit cards, although admittedly I’ve been taking it easy recently. If you want access to your credit reports (not score), please check out the many ways to get a free credit report as well. Thanks to SlickDeals and reader Tim.

If you’re interested in lending on Prosper, grab your $25 bonus and a few tips from these posts:

Ask The Readers: What’s Going On With The Stock Market and the Economy?

I’m not very good at keeping up with market fluctuations in general, but Bernanke cutting the Fed Funds Rate by 0.75% got my attention. I’ll be honest – I was totally distracted this weekend by other things, and I barely noticed the drop in stock prices over the last week. The S&P 500 is down nearly 3% right now from Friday. The new headline for CNN is “Recession Watch 2008”. What did I miss?

Asset Allocation: Investing In Real Estate Through REITs?

When deciding on your portfolio’s asset allocation, another option beyond broad stock funds in domestic or international markets is to invest in is real estate. Besides directly owning a home or office complex, an easy way to get exposure is to own Real Estate Investment Trusts, or REITs.

What is an REIT?
From the National Association of REITs website:

A REIT is a company that owns, and in most cases, operates income-producing real estate such as apartments, shopping centers, offices, hotels and warehouses. Some REITs also engage in financing real estate. The shares of many REITs are freely traded, usually on a major stock exchange.

To qualify as a REIT, a company must distribute at least 90 percent of its taxable income to its shareholders annually. A company that qualifies as a REIT is permitted to deduct dividends paid to its shareholders from its corporate taxable income. As a result, most REITs remit at least 100 percent of their taxable income to their shareholders and therefore owe no corporate tax.

Since the REIT income essentially “passes through” directly to the shareholders, you are getting relatively direct exposure to commercial real estate. You’re not investing in a builder, or some other funky derivative. There are both domestic and international REITs, but lots of the following is based on US REITs.

Characteristics of REITs
Long-term historical data for REITs are not directly available, as there was not necessarily a consistent index to track them, or actual broad mutual funds investing in them. I’ve read various estimates from varying companies and academic studies via different books for returns (annualized).

To generalize, the performance of REITs is a little less than that of broad stock indexes, but higher than the return from bonds.

However, the main reason why many investment professionals and institutions all invest in REITs is that they have a historically low correlation with the overall stock markets, and also the bond market. This diversification benefit allows you to incorporate Modern Portfolio Theory and try to construct a portfolio with a better return/risk ratio than you had previously.
[Read more…]

Brokerage Promotions: $100 Bonuses at Tradeking and OptionsXpress

TradeKing is offering a $100 bonus (expired) for new households opening an account with at least $2,500, and making one trade. You must keep $1,000 in the account for the first 6 months. I could not find a related TradeKing promotional code for this offer, but it appears to be valid. Check out my TradeKing review for some of my experiences and account tips.

OptionsXpress is also offering a $100 bonus if you open an account and fund with at least $500 by 3/31/08. They will also cover any transfer fees up to $100 if you move your entire account (of at least $2,000 value) to them. They have some cheap options contract prices if you are a very active trader. For equity trades, their commissions start at $10 which isn’t too special. $100 might convince me to check them out, though. :)

Rollover IRAs: Good Idea In General, But What About A Small 401k?

If you leave your job and have a 401k or 403b left behind, the common advice is to roll it over into a Rollover IRA. There are several benefits to doing so, but here are the biggies:

  1. You maintain the tax-deferred status of the investment. For a traditional 401k, you would still be subject to ordinary income tax upon withdrawal, but along the way it would continue to grow tax-free. If you took the money as a lump sum, you would be subject to both taxes and penalties right away (with specific exceptions).
  2. Increased flexibility in investments. Most 401k plans have relatively limited investment choices, but you can open up an IRA at a variety of places. You can the invest in individual stocks, different mutual funds, bonds, ETFs, annuities, or even just a bank certificate of deposit.
  3. Save money by paying less fees. Along the same vein, many 401ks contain mutual funds with relatively high expense ratios compared to what is available on the open market. Many would recommend switching to low-cost index funds.
  4. You can consolidate accounts. You can combine the Rollover IRA with your other IRAs of the same time (Roth or Traditional Pre-Tax). One less thing to manage.
  5. Estate Planning perks.With an IRA, you have the ability to create a “Stretch IRA”, where your child can inherit and IRA and have the distributions “stretched out” across their longer life expectancy. This allows for more time to tax-free growth.

But many of these perks get overshadowed when you have a small 401k balance. My wife has an old 401k with only $2,000 in it at Fidelity. She gets to choose from a variety of Fidelity funds, including their Spartan index funds with 0.10% expense ratios, all with no minimum investment requirements. In addition, I don’t believe she is being charged any sort of administrative fees. We haven’t rolled it over to an IRA because:

  • Lonely IRA. We have no Traditional-type IRAs to merge it with at this time. We’d just be left with a $2,000 IRA.
  • Flexibility? If we moved it to Vanguard with the rest of our IRAs, we would not meet the $3,000 minimum for most of the funds. The only fund we could buy would be the Vanguard STAR fund.
  • No money to be saved? At most brokers, paying a commission for every trade on only $2,000 would really eat into the balance. We could move it to Zecco, which has free trades but also a $30 annual IRA fee. We can do better staying put, although if our existing investment choices were worse, finding a low-cost brokerage and switching to buying ETFs might be an option.
  • Itty-bitty estate. Again for small balances, this isn’t much of a factor in my opinion. No kids, anyhow :)

We could also move it to her new 403b, but it also has less-than-ideal investment choices. For now, it seems like the best move is really to stay put at Fidelity until there is a better opportunity. However, I would agree that our situation is a relatively rare case.

Interim Asset Allocation: Existing Accounts, Fund Choices, and Implementation

Okay, so I’ve decided upon an asset allocation plan. Now for my least favorite part – juggling and cramming all those asset classes into several different accounts. First, I’ll list my existing accounts, their estimated current balances, and my flexibility in investment options.

Account Type Est. Value Fund Choices
Roth IRA #1 $46,000 Vanguard funds w/ no transaction fee (NTF)
Roth IRA #2 $13,000 All Vanguard funds
Traditional 401k #1 $23,000 All Fidelity funds+ ETFs w/ $20 commission
Traditional 403b #2 $14,500 Limited low-cost fund choices (S&P 500 index fund, DODGX)
Traditional 401k #3 (old job) $2,000 Select Fidelity funds
Total Value $98,500

So I’ve got 7 asset classes to fit in 5 accounts. Below is a chart that shows the major asset classes sorted by tax efficiency:

Chart of Relative Tax Efficiency of Assets
(See my post on Tax Efficient Mutual Fund Placement For Maximum Return for sources and more information.)

Next, I combine my chosen 86% stocks/14% bonds with my asset allocation to find the breakdown below:

Asset Class Percentage of Total Portfolio Est. Value
Short-Term Treasury Bonds 7% $7,000
TIPS 7% $7,000
Real Estate 8.6% $8,500
US Small Value 8.6% $8,500
Emerging Markets 8.6% $8,500
International Large 25.8% $25,500
US Large 34.4% $34,000
Totals 100% $99,000

For example, with 40% of all stocks as US Large, I get 40% x 86% = 34.4% US Large over my entire portfolio. You might notice that I also sorted them in the tax-efficient order given above.

But in this case, I also need to consider the availability of low-cost index funds as well as placement, especially since all my money is already in tax-deferred accounts. My Roth IRAs are all with Vanguard with a wide variety of index choices, but my Traditional 401ks are limited to a few select index funds. After spending some time with a pencil, paper, and good eraser, here is the compromise I have worked out:

Roth IRA #1
$7,000 Vanguard Short-Term Treasury Fund (VFISX)
$3,000 Vanguard REIT Index Fund (VGSIX)
$8,500 Vanguard Small-Cap Value Index Fund (VISVX)
$8,500 Vanguard Emerging Markets Stock Index Fund (VEIEX)
$19,000 Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund (VTSMX)

Roth IRA #2
$7,000 Vanguard Inflation-Protected Securities Fund (VIPSX)
$6,000 Vanguard REIT Index Fund (VGSIX)

Traditional 401k #1
$23,000 Fidelity Spartan International Index Fund (FSIIX)

Traditional 403b #2
$14,500 Diversified [S&P 500 Index] Fund (DISFX)

Traditional 401k #3 (old job)
$1,000 Fidelity Spartan Total Market Index Fund (FSTMX)
$1,000 Fidelity Spartan International Index Fund (FSIIX)

On additional reason for this particular set up is to accommodate future growth. As the year progresses, I can continue to buy more shares of the largest asset classes (FSIIX and DISFX) in our 401ks. To retain the target asset allocation if things get out of whack, I can sell VTSMX in my Roth IRA and buy other funds as needed, with only a $3,000 minimum for most funds. I avoid any other low-balance fees at Vanguard by choosing electronic delivery of statements. In the future, I may switch my IRAs to an brokerage account to simply buy ETFs, but I don’t think that is necessary quite yet. I like the current simplicity and good service.

(By the way, I have such large Roth IRA balances because I did a Traditional-to-Roth conversion while our tax brackets were lower than they are now.)

Interim Asset Allocation: History, Decision, and Changes

Over the last year or so, I’ve learned a lot of new things about investing and asset allocation. At the same time, I know that changing your asset allocation too frequently is often a response to recent market activity (aka performance chasing, or market timing). In addition, I’m a highly analytical person and I love for things to have a correct answer to 5 significant figures before committing… which is pretty much impossible here. But at some point I know I just need to take action if I truly believe it is an improvement.

Previous Asset Allocation
In April 2006, I moved from the all-in-one Vanguard Target Retirement 2045 Fund (VTIVX) to a portfolio with more asset classes in an attempt to better optimize risk/reward factors based on historical data. You can see the asset allocation breakdown here. This asset allocation is pretty much what I have right now, except that I added a Micro-Cap stock fund and we moved money into a 401k with limited investment options.

Interim Asset Allocation

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I’m still continuing my series on building my portfolio, so I won’t explain all my actions here, but here are some quick summaries:

  1. Stocks/bonds allocation. I am shifting to a age-based formula for my stocks percentage. Using 115 minus my age, I am at 86% stocks and 14% bonds.
  2. Domestic/international allocation. I am increasing my international allocation to better match the world market. It’s essentially 50/50 if you think REITs are a separate asset class.
  3. Small/Value/Emerging Markets. These sub-classes are riskier than their overall market, but have been shown to have diversification benefits. Even if they don’t in the future, I am okay with them simply being more risky along with higher returns. Essentially, I am taking the total markets, and increasing the portion of one additional asset class which I think has the highest diversification benefits. For example, Small Value is a subset of Total US market, and Emerging Markets is a subset of the Total International market.
  4. Real Estate. I’m still holding REITs, as they are a way to invest in commercial real estate, and have also been shown to provide diversification benefits. Will give more references later.
  5. Micro-Cap, International Value, and Large Value. I think all of these potentially good asset classes to hold, but I think they are of lesser overall importance than the others. So in an effort to simplify, I am dropping them as separate funds. I still continue to have exposure the asset classes within other funds.
  6. New Bonds Allocation. I’ve been meaning to this for a while. I’ve been holding an intermediate-term corporate bond fund because it used to have a lower expense ratio after various fees. Inflation-protected bonds are still pretty new, but I’ve been convinced of their utility. I’ve also been convinced that bond ratings agencies just aren’t that good at their jobs, so I’m sticking with the highest quality bonds (Treasuries). The book Unconventional Success was a big influence here.

I call this my interim asset allocation because while I’m very confident this new setup fits my needs and preferences better than my previous asset allocation, I know that I will continue to learn and read. But just like with football coaches, this interim asset allocation might just become my permanent one.

In addition to all the books that I have read (and am still reading), I’d also like to say thanks to the many smart and helpful folks over at the Diehards.org forums for all the indirect and direct help. (I post anonymously at both forums.) Even though they sometimes feed my tendency towards complexity, I love the wealth of information that is available.

Rebuilding My Investment Portfolio: Index Of Posts So Far

I am a proponent and investor in low-cost, passive-managed mutual funds, but even within that philosophy there can be a dizzying array of choices. Although this has been taking a lot longer than I had hoped, but here is an updated compilation of posts about my thought process when re-building my portfolio.

Section 1: Simplified Theoretical Stuff

  1. Disclaimer and General Philosophy
  2. Consider Simply Buying The Entire Market
  3. Efficient Frontier and Modern Portfolio Theory

Section 2: Choosing An Asset Allocation

  1. Deciding On The Stocks/Bonds Ratio
  2. Deciding On The Domestic/International Ratio
  3. Considering The Diversification Benefits Of Small and Value Stocks
  4. Equity Asset Allocation: Comparison of 8 Model Portfolios

Lending Club: $50 Bonus + 5% Of Loan Amount If You Lend $5,000+

Wow, here’s an interesting promotion from person-to-person lender Lending Club. They are currently offering a 5% cash bonus if you lend $5,000 or more by February 3, 2008 for both new and existing lenders on top of their $25/$50 sign-up bonus. Here are the details from their announcement:

You will qualify for the bonus by lending $5,000 or more to borrowers between December 14th, 2007 and February 3rd, 2008 (at 11:59PM Pacific time). Your bonus will be 5% of the amount you lend.

For example, if you lend $7,500 Lending Club will credit your Lending Club account with $7,500 * 5% or $375. Funds count as lent once a portfolio (or portfolios) is submitted during the aforementioned eligibility period. The loans do not have to be issued by February 3rd to qualify.

We will notify you of the amount of your bonus by the end of day, Friday, February 8th, 2008, and your account will be credited with your lending bonus by Friday, February 15th, 2008. No special sign-up or tracking is required ? we will run reports on the system to determine bonuses. Feel free to email us at lender.offer@lendingclub.com to ask about your bonus.

[…] Lenders can each earn a maximum payout of $20,000 (if they lend $400,000).

A 5% bonus definitely grabbed my interest again after making a few initial test loans. If you haven’t already, check out my LendingClub review to learn more about their setup for person-to-person lending.

At first I got all excited since banks are only paying 5% interest themselves, but then I remembered that LendingClub loans are spread out over 3 years, so it’s not like you are getting a 5% interest bonus each year (that would be sweet!). Instead, 5% spread out over 3 years is like adding roughly an additional 1.65% annual interest to the existing rate set by LendingClub. (Actually, since the 5% is given upfront, it would actually boost your returns even more.) But remember, these are unsecured loans similar to credit cards, and there is a risk of principal loss. Is that cushion worth putting in $5,000 in?

So far all of my existing loans with LendingClub are rated a safe A3-A4 (7.75 to 8.07%). Given that their minimum allowable credit score is 640, and their credit grades run all the way from A1, A2, A3 to G3, G4, G5, I would estimate that such people have credit scores well over 700 as well as other positive criteria like a reasonable debt-to-income ratio. Therefore, I would love so see my return increase to a 9.4 to 10.72% return on high-quality loans. With $5,000 available to spread across 200 loans ($25 each), that would also smooth out the default risk from a few bad loans.

Lending $5,000 for 3 years is a lot of money, but this is the best person-to-person lending deal I’ve found. Hmm… very tempting!

2008 Financial Jump-Start Checklist: 5 Actions That Can Take 5 Minutes Or Less!

Even if you don’t do resolutions per se, I think most of us still have areas of improvement that we want to work on for 2008. The problem is that is it so easy to keep putting off taking action to reach our goals. Given that I think little steps are the best way to solve big problems, here is a little action checklist that may be handy (complete with handy checkboxes if you want to print it out). How about at least one per day?

Reduce or Remove A Monthly Expenditure

  • Objective: Got a gym membership but haven’t gone in months? Yard man coming too often? Got some Netflix DVDs that have been sitting on your desk for weeks? Cable bill too high?
  • Action Required: Pinpoint a monthly expense that you don’t need anymore (or as often), and make the phone call to cancel. Stop putting it off.

Raise Your 401k/403b Contribution by 1%

Lower Your Interest Rate on Credit Card Debt

  • Objective: If you’re paying any sort of interest on credit card debt, it’s worth a call to see if they’ll lower it. Interest rates have been dropping again, and the banks are as competitive as ever for your money.
  • Action Required: Call up your highest rate credit issuer, and ask for a lower rate. Quote a few of the better offers you’ve been getting in the mail. If you have good credit and are serious about paying it off, it may be best to switch to a card with a 0% intro rate on balance transfers for 12 months.

Start an Automatic Transfer To Online Savings Account

  • Objective: If you’re not saving as much as you’d like manually, try using psychology to your advantage and make it automatic instead. You can always move the money back later if it doesn’t work out.
  • Action Required: If you don’t have an high-yield savings account paying at least 4% interest, pick one and open it right away. Then log in and schedule an automatic and recurring transfer into it of $100 or whatever every month. Use multiple accounts for different goals.

Set A Short-Term Goal

  • Objective: Forget “save for retirement’ or other vague goals. Setting specific, attainable short-term goals really helps keep me on track. One of my goals is to cook dinner at home one more day each week.
  • Action Required: Think about what would make you feel really good to have accomplished 1-3 months from now, write it down, and tell your significant other or close friend about it. Set a specific end date.

My short-term attainable goal for this week: By Sunday 1/6, I will have at least re-allocated my investment portfolio to the proper stock/bond ratio and US/International ratios that I explored previously. It should only take part of an evening, as I’ve already chosen them.

Investment Portfolio: 2007 Year-End Holdings And Performance Update

12/07 Portfolio Breakdown
 
Retirement Portfolio
Fund $ %
FSTMX – Total Stock Market (~Large) $24,006 23%
DISFX – S&P 500 Index Fund (Large) $7,437 7%
VIVAX – Vanguard Value Index (Lg Value) $13,782 13%
DODGX – Dodge & Cox (Lg Value) $13,782 5%
VISVX – V. Small-Cap Value Index $12,725 12%
VGSIX – V. REIT Index $7,637 7%
VTRIX – V. International Value $8,851 13%
VEIEX – V. Emerging Markets Stock Index $10,622 10%
VFICX – V. Int-Term Investment-Grade Bond $8,037 8%
PTRAX – PIMCO Total Return (Interm. Bond) $2,393 2%
Cash (to be invested) $3,000 3%
Total $105,323

Recent Transactions
In the last quarter of the year, we ended up putting in the maximum $15,500 salary deferral in both of our 401k/403b’s. I had already put in $12,500 already in my Solo 401k, so I sent in a last-minute check for $3,000. For my wife’s 401k, it was done in big salary deferrals in October, November, and December. We were lucky that the company allows almost 100% salary deferrals.

Summary and Performance
My last portfolio update was back in September, but I figured with the end of 2007 it was definitely time for an update. It was a late decision to go ahead and contribute a lot to our tax-deferred accounts and taking away a bit from our cash hoard, so I was more concerned with getting them in on time than what I was actually investing in. Lots of changes to come soon, so I’m just posting a snapshot of what we have for now.

I did go back and track the cash inflows, and calculated our time-weighted rate of return, which ended up being 2.49% annualized for 2007. For a very rough comparison, the S&P 500 via Vanguard 500 (VFINX) returned 6.13% YTD. Part of this low performance was just due to timing, as the latter half of 2007 was a lot worse than the 1st half, and that was when we invested a lot more money. (Remember, this is the exact performance of our money, not just the averaged returns of all the funds we hold.) In 2006, our portfolio return was calculated at 24.9%. How did you do in 2007?